Category Archives: West Coast History

One of our favourite places for mountain biking and hiking is the wee town of Reefton. It is just under an hours drive inland from Greymouth so one of our go-to places when we have some time on our hands and want a nice outing.

Stephen and I both commented a visit was overdue so we loaded up the bikes and took the drive up the valley.

Destination Murray Creek tracks at Blacks Point just on the outskirts of Reefton. We’ve got the fur kids with us and they recognise the area and are super excited to be let loose and get a good run.

Five, four, three, two, one and we’re off….. sounds like a race but I assure you it is anything but – not for the hoomans anyway. This track starts straight into climbing – short and sharp to boot. Doesn’t faze the kids though, not with four paw drive and so many good smells to divert their attention along the way.

We soon get our rhythm going and make our way grinding up the hill. Thankfully it does peter off a bit and the legs get a chance to warm up and recover. It is super pretty biking up through the forest and following the creek as it meanders down below us.

Thankfully before long we reach the swingbridge over the creek. I say thankfully as there is about 100 metres of very steep gradient with loose rocks to negotiate just before the swingbridge – my least favourite part of the whole ride so always a sense of relief once we reach the swingbridge and know the worst of the climb is over.

I enjoy the challenge of trying to ride across the swingbridge – it is pretty narrow and of course moves so is a good test of my balancing skills if I can make it across without grabbing the railing or putting a foot down. Today I let loose with a whoop whoop as I successfully make it across to the other side.

The right side of the creek is more of a gentle meander up through the bush. The vegetation changes slightly as it opens out a bit more, letting the light filter through the canopy of the trees.

A smaller bridge takes us back across to the other side of the creek and the gentle meander that we were enjoying slowly starts to increase in gradient – up, up, up, remembering what goes up must come down so some fun times are ahead of us…… eventually…….

One noticeable thing about being back on this of the track is the sea of green. This side is much more shaded and the green foliage all around us is popping. We’re waiting on the fairies to come out and say hello or better still Tarzan to swing on by – aaahhhh aahh aahh aaaaaaahhhhhhh (I have no idea how to type that jungle calling lol).

It is a fun descent and the dogs like to think they are racing us down. Dream on kids, if we wanted to we’d kick your buts – well maybe. Soon enough we’re back at the swingbridge.

I let out a whoop and hollar at the joy of another successful crossing – this girl is on fire! Well I like to think so anyway haha.

A final quick blast and we’re at the end, or back at the start, however you want to look at it. Kids happy – check, hoomans happy – check, good day out by all – check. Thanks Murry Creek Tracks and thanks Reefton, you didn’t disappoint. To top it off we stopped at Nana Ni’s Cafe on the main street in Reefton for a takeaway coffee and apple turnover – now that is a great way to finish a ride!

The Kawatiri Coastal Cycle trail is a trail currently going from the Buller bridge at Westport to just past Carters Beach. A trust was set up and a passionate group of volunteers applied for funding to make this dream come true. There has been great buy-in by the community and the end result is a proposed trail running from Westport to Charleston, eventually some 55kms long.

With a recent trip north to the Buller region we thought it was time we checked out the progress of the cycle trail so far. I say cycle trail but it can be walked (or run!) too. It is classed as grade 2 – a lovely family friendly, even gravel surface initially following the Buller River before it reaches Carters beach and then heads along the coast towards Cape Foulwind.

More of the trail is currently being worked on through to Cape Foulwind and on to Tauranga Bay but as there is machinery and workman still working the trail they haven’t opened that section up yet.

It has been quite the undertaking and no shortcuts taken in the quality of the trail. Nice and wide making for easy passing for two way “traffic” and the boardwalks through the native bush sections protecting the wetland and waterways are seriously second to none.

There are information boards and interpretation panels strategically positioned along the way pointing out the fascinating history of early Maori and European settlers and other notes of interest. It is always fascinating stopping and reading these boards and learning more of the history of the region. Through the bush sections there are tags pointing out the various flora and their significance to being found in the area.

So far the trail is in its infancy with what is known as the Pūwaha section open Westport to Carters Beach. That alone is a wonderful diverse ecology and views so I can only imagine what the rest of this trail is eventually going to be like.

Well done to all involved – the spirit of the West Coast is alive and well in Buller, West Coast.

The Kawatiri Coastal Trail needs donations to help support the maintenance and ongoing operations. The Trust welcomes donations to ensure this incredible community asset moves forward, giving enjoyment and health benefits to all that use it.

Jan and Stephen run Breakers Boutique Accommodation on the West Coast north of Greymouth.  They have a passion for exploring the region and sharing their backyard with visitors to the West Coast.

The Tairea is one of the famous waka in Ngai Tahu storytelling and recounts a pounamu creation legend.

The Tairea belonged to Tama Ahua, who lived at volcanic Tuhua (Mayor Island) in the Bay of Plenty with his three wives Hine Pounamu, Hine Aotea and Hine Tangiwai.

The wives deserted Tama Ahua and hurried away from Tuhua in Tama Ahua's Tairea waka, now captained by their new suitors. They set sail southward, eventually reaching Rangitoto (D'Urville Island) at the top of the South Island.

When Tama Ahua realised what had happened he set off in hot pursuit, aided by his slave Timuaki, hoping to win back his beloved wives. Using a magic dart to divine the path they had taken, he cast it high into the air until it stopped and pointed to Rangitoto. He immediately set sail but arrived only to find the blackened remains of their fire.

Casting the dart again, it pointed this time to Onetahua (near Motueka), but again he was too late. Once more the dart flew through the air, this time turning and showing the way down the Tai o Poutini, alighting at Pahautane (near Fox River), and then with another throw, at Kotorepi (Nine Mile Creek and beach).

The Tairea, meanwhile, was leaking badly and began to take on water as it passed by here (Punakaiki). The fugitives furiously baled out the leaking canoe but eventually were forced to make landfall at Kotorepi to effect urgent repairs. They then carried on under sail and paddle around to the next bay, Rapahoe, meaning the 'blade of the paddle'.

They pushed on southward aboard the Tairea, with Tama Ahua and Timuaki following days behind in their wake. When the Tairea reached the Makawhio River tragedy befell Hine Aotea, who was drowned and thereby turned to stone.

Onwards again till the waka made Piopiotahi (Milford Sound), where again they were struck by tragedy and Hine Tangiwai drowned and was also turned to stone.

Bereft, they turned the Tairea around and headed north again, until reaching the Arahura River, which they crossed and continued upstream to hide in case of pursuit. On they went till the mountains narrowed the valley and river into a dangerous rapid. Here the Tairea foundered and sank, drowning Hine Pounamu, along with the three captains. All were turned to stone.

Tama Ahua meanwhile, after following his dart to Makawhio, then Piopiotahi and back to Arahura, ventured up the river until he came upon the sail of his old waka clinging to the mountainside Whitiaketera. Looking into the deep pool below the rapids he saw the Tairea and its crew all turned to stone, including Hine Pounamu.

However, a certain karakia gave him the chance to restore his wife to life by making an offering to the atua, of birds cooked in the umu. Heading back downstream to find the birds, Tama Ahua instructed his slave to prepare the umu but the birds emerged overcooked. Worse than that, as Timuaki lifted them off the hot rocks he burnt his fingers and instinctively licked them, thereby immediately breaking the tapu and the karakia.

Distraught at having lost his only chance of reviving Hine Pounamu, Tama Ahua turned his rage on Timuaki, whom he turned into a small hill on the spot. The mountain alongside he named Tuhua as a memorial to his and Hine Pounamu's northern home, and the mountain opposite Whitiaketera he named Tara o Tama. Tama Ahua then returned to the north, leaving behind Hine Pounamu, who became the mother lode of pounamu in the Arahura.
 

The Grey District is known as the Heart of the West Coast.  An easy 2 hour drive south to the glacier region and to the north we have Buller with The Great Coast Road, numerous beaches and gorgeous bush walks.

Possibly the best thing about getting out and doing a bush walk is they are free, all you need is time.  Remember the golden rule though – take only photographs, leave only footprints.

This little blog is to showcase some of our bush walks and we’ve put together a little piece of five of our favourite.  Now these are in no particular order.  Each time we visit these areas we say “this is our favourite walk” – until we visit the next spot again and then  it is our favourite walk. They all have something different to offer be it just beautiful scenery, peace and tranquility, birdlife or history.

So first up:

Brunner Mine Site

Located on the banks of the Grey River accessible from either side – Dobson or Taylorville. Brunner Mine site is a most fascinating piece of not just West Coast history but New Zealand history.  It is the site of NZ’s worst industrial disaster, back in 1886 when 65 men/boys tragically lost their lives in a coal mine explosion.

Learn more about Grey District, Heart of the West Coast - 5 short walks

Well it seems an apt time to showcase our own Grey District – heart of the West Coast.  A great place to base yourself to explore north and south – east and west, no not west, you’ll be in Australia.  Come on!

I can vouch for it being a great place to base yourself for exploring the West Coast – well yes mainly because we live here but we do all our exploring from here so just goes to show how easy it is….. no bias in that statement at all.

The Grey District has everything – it is the gateway to the Great Coast Road, named one of the top ten coastal drives in the world by Lonely Planet and worth a visit on its own.  

Learn more of the Grey District, Heart of the West Coast

On the road again, I can’t wait to get on the road again.  Seriously cannot wait to get on the road again, but until we can go further afield ourselves we’ll head out on another virtual tour.  This time a gorgeous loop we did last Winter.

First up to Reefton – probably our favourite little West Coast town.  If you’re a long time follower of our blog you’ll know I’ve sung Reefton’s praises on many an occasion.  This time we were just passing through, then through the gorgeous Rahau Saddle, one of my favourite drives as it is cut through Victoria forest and is always so lush and green – I digress, on to Springs Junction to head north through the Maruia Valley in search of Maruia Falls.

Continue reading our Virtual Mystery Tour West Coast - Murchison Reefton Loop

One of the little pleasures of running Breakers Boutique Accommodation is meeting people from all over the world and having the opportunity of sharing our little slice of paradise and our backyard.

Lately we had a lovely couple from Sweden, Lena and Lars staying four nights.  Staying longer than one night gives us the chance to showcase more of the region and get a little off the beaten "touristy" track - as lovely as some of those spots are.

A personal favourite of ours to take some time out is up 10 mile valley.  It seemed the perfect place to share with Lena and Lars for an afternoon outing.

The 10 mile valley is a gorgeous valley of contrasts and diversity with towering cliffs, lush green vegetation and the meandering creek.  The first section of the trail gently winds it way up the valley following the creek before it then heads sharply up hill giving outstanding views back down the valley below.

The 10 mile valley is not only stunning scenery but packed with coal mining history as well.  Lately Stephen has been doing some off track exploring and discovered more of the mining history including long abandoned mine entrances and old rail-line relics.  It is fun to be able to share some of the history of the area with our guests first hand and it gave Lena and Lars a real sense of the history that the West Coast was founded on.

To top off the afternoon Lena and Stephen - and their trusty guide Ansel had a lovely swim in the refreshing water of the creek.  A great way to end their explorations up the 10 mile valley. Thanks Lena and Lars for giving us the opportunity of sharing this unique part of backyard with you.

Ross is a historic gold town just south of Hokitika on the Glacier Highway.

Gold was first found in the area in the 1860s and thus the town of Ross was established. With a population of around 300 people it is hard to believe it was once more like 4000 in the height of the gold rush days.

Recently we had a couple of nights staying in Ross – at the Totara Bridge Station holiday park nestled at the end of Ross Beach Road.  What a location!  Literally right on the beach you’ll discover this almost hidden oasis.  With accommodation options suiting every budget – we were in our caravan, so there are powered and unpowered sites, dorm bunk rooms, double rooms or self catering units.  Now I say rooms and units but these are more like pods.  They are actually recycled shipping containers that have been converted and to say they are cool well that would be an under-statement, even down to the communal kitchen and ablution block – really tastefully done.

Ross is possibly more known of late as being either the finish or the start of the West Coast Wilderness Trail – part of the NZ Cycle Trial system around New Zealand.  The West Coast Wilderness Trail goes from Greymouth to Ross – some 139kms through some of the most stunning West Coast scenery on offer.  The Totara Bridge Station is a great accommodation option for people using the cycleway.

We weren’t here to do any biking (I know – what!) but with two days up our sleeves we had plenty of time to explore the offerings of Ross.  Compulsory would be a walk on the beach.  Predominately a sandy beach, from the Ross Beach road you can head off in either direction – literally for miles.  Nico and I didn’t venture too far but did enjoy just meandering with the sand between our toes and relaxing in the sunshine.  Stephen and Ziggy headed off to the south – out towards the point.  There is a seal colony out here so you often get seals anywhere along the beach lazing in the sunshine.

One thing I never get sick of are West Coast sunsets.  I know we live by the sea and get to see them all the time  but I just can’t help myself – they draw you in and each one is different and special in its own right – no matter what beach you are on.  I’m obviously not alone in my thinking as some of the locals came down both nights we were here, pulled up, watched the sunset and then headed back home for the night.

For us after we’d seen the sunset,  we headed into Ross for dinner at the Historic Empire Hotel.  Talk about your traditional Kiwi country pub.  This place rocked!  So much atmosphere and history – you could almost feel it oozing from the walls.  The bar was filled with locals and visitors alike.  Quite a few workmen in the area at the moment – for gold mining and tree planting apparently.  Everyone was friendly and eager with a smile.  Maria behind the bar and Christine out in the kitchen were all smiles and the bistro buffet was just what the doctor ordered.  After a cold beer or two by the roaring fire and with satiated tummies it was time to head back to base and hit the hay for the night.

My only regret during our stay was not getting out to take some night photos.  The star lit skies would have to have been some of the best I’ve seen for a very long time.  We get some awesome star lit skies at home but the two nights we had in Ross they were quite out of this world – and you’re just going to have to trust me on that.

Next day after another compulsory short walk on the beach, we headed into Ross to the Goldfields Museum and Information Centre.  While Stephen did a walk about town, I chatted with the lovely lady in the Information Centre who was super friendly and helpful.  Nico and I then went back to base to make a picnic lunch while Stephen and Ziggy headed off to check out the historic Gold Heritage Trail.

This is a lovely walk in the back of Ross, following the water race as it wound its way up the hillside.  There are lots of relics and information boards with a cool old miners hut at the top of the trail before the trail joins with the historic Ross cemetery.

It was here that Nico and I joined Stephen and Ziggy for our lunch.  Something about sitting in among the graves and headstones – we find it very peaceful and therapeutic.  Not bad views from up here either! Peek-a-boo I see you……

Now to give you an indication of how Ross was once a thriving metropolis (remember earlier I mentioned a population of 300 now v 4000 back in the late 1800s) well Ross has two historic cemeteries.  Knowing how we love cemeteries an investigation of the second cemetery was compulsory – aaahh I think we’re in heaven – excuse the pun.  What we did wonder is if perhaps one cemetery was Catholic and the other Protestant – they both certainly seemed of similar age historically.  The latter of our cemetery visits though is also the current use cemetery and again what a location – what a view.  Sitting atop a hill with views in all directions.  Think we’ve found our lunch stop when we next need a place to stop on route to – well anywhere…..

Our afternoon excursion saw us taking a drive further south from Ross (about 15kms or so), turning down Beach Road off SH6 just before the Waitaha River bridge, passing through the little settlement of Kakapotahi and coming out at the river mouth of the Waitaha River.  The beach was strewn with driftwood – as far as the eye could see.  It would be a driftwood sculpture’s idea of heaven – talk about untamed natural wilderness.  The boys and I were content to find a nice log and sit and relax and enjoy the views while Stephen took some (more tee hee) photographs.  Watching the surf pound in against the shoreline is rather mesmerizing to say the least.

Back to base to feed the boys and catch another stunning sunset.  Once again some of the locals turned up – like us they just sat and watched and then headed off again.  I could watch a sunset every night of the week and it was great to see I wasn’t alone in that thinking.  The sun setting into the sea should not be taken for granted, not every one is so lucky. This one set the sky on fire – so much so it made it look like the holiday park accommodation was on fire with the reflections in their windows.  Rest assured a call to the local fire brigade was not necessary.

With the boys tummies satiated – yep our turn and it was back to the Empire Hotel for a traditional country pub feed.  Something else I could do every night of the week – but then I’d be the size of a house so while watching a sunset whenever you like is allowable – and even advised, eating pub food too often is definitely not.  We enjoyed it while we could though and then back to check the boys and settle in for the night.

On a more heartbreaking note – we want to dedicate this blog posting to our beautiful boy Nico who recently passed away.  Our family chain has broken and our hearts are broken with it.  He was one super special dog – our big fella, our gentle giant, so full of love and joy.  So glad to have had this final road trip with him – he loved coming on our adventures, loved meeting new people and exploring new places.  Rest easy our beautiful boy – you will remain forever in our hearts. xo

Jan and Stephen run Breakers Boutique Accommodation on the Great Coast Road north of Greymouth.  Together with their much-loved faithful companions Nico and Ziggy they enjoy getting out and exploring the region they’ve been lucky enough to call home – The Untamed Natural Wilderness West Coast.

The Point Elizabeth track would have to be Greymouth’s premier walking track.  Running from the shores of North Beach… north of Cobden and finishing at Rapahoe Beach just off State Highway 6 at the gateway to the Great Coast Road.

The trail meanders along the cliff-tops through semi subtropical rain forest and often offers great coastal views.  The Cobden end has information boards for many of the trees and shrubs which we always find useful.  The DOC website describes the bush as one of the finest remaining tracts of mixed coastal forest in New Zealand.  Even I’ve learned something new today……

While it is Greymouth’s premier walking track it is probably the most under-rated.  We often recommend this trail to our guests and they come back blown away by its natural beauty.

The trail follows an old water race that gold miners used to sluice their gold claims so is a great trail of history but without any remaining relics to oooh and aahhh over.  That’s ok though the bush gives plenty of reason for that.

Approximately half way you have the “Point Elizabeth lookout” – a great viewpoint of the gorgeous coastline as it winds its way north.  If you could see below you’d know there is a seal colony below you.  With the sea slowly eroding the limestone cliffs though you can’t see below only out so you’ll just have to trust me on this.  A walk along the Rapahoe beach though and all would be revealed.  What you can often see are Dolphins playing in the surf out off the rock stacks – now that is a seriously cool sight indeed.  No luck on this walk though – more of a summer sight than during a winter walk.

The second half of the walk I would describe more as untamed wilderness.  Don’t get me wrong, it is still a formed track but the bush just seems a little more wild and unruly, the naughty kids sitting at the back of the classroom.

This weekend we had our good friends Bernie and Gerard visiting from Franz Josef – fellow b&b operators who own the beautiful Holly Homestead.  Always a good excuse to head out and showcase some of the local attractions.  The Point Elizabeth track can be walked in either direction if you arrange for a pick up at the other end or organise a car shuttle or alternatively you can walk in and out or just to the “point” and back out – whew, confused – basically there is something for everyone depending on your organisation and time.

Stephen and Bernie headed out for an early morning walk of the track – Cobden to Rapahoe.  A gorgeous way to start the day and with the views of the Great Coast Road and Rapahoe to end with, a nice way to end a meander through some natural untamed wilderness on the West Coast.

Jan and Stephen run Breakers Boutique Accommodation on the Great Coast Road north of Greymouth.  They enjoy getting out and about and exploring the many wonders this region has to offer and sharing and showcasing to anyone interested.

Workingmen's Club are a type of private social club first established in industrial areas of the UK in the early 19th century providing recreation and education for working class men and women.  In NZ they are an integral part of small communities.  There isn't so much emphasis on education more on recreation so communities can socialise, play pool, snooker, darts or watch sport on big screen TVs.  Many also provide food and entertainment through quizz nights, live music etc.

The Runanga Workingman's Club is a living education through its Historic Sports Wall of Fame, a photographic showcase of the numerous achievements of many from the community be it Rugby League, basketball, tennis, boxing, cross-country running and marathon running - just to name a few.  One example from the commemorate wall is Dave McKenzie.  Dave won the Boston Marathon 50 years ago and was invited back to Boston this year to join in their 50th year celebrations - a wonderful achievement for a young man back in 1967 from small town New Zealand.

Most recently the Club building has had a facelift on the outside thanks to two very talented local artists Mark Haldane and Les Holmes, showcasing some of the industrial history, political and sporting heroes from this small community.

These guys have done a most amazing job and driving past now you can't help but have a smile on your face.

If you're visiting the Grey District make sure you allow some time to visit Runanga and call in at the Workingman's Club for a history lesson with the Sports Wall of Fame and the great art work on the exterior of the building helping tell the story.

Jan and Stephen run Breakers Boutique Accommodation on the Great Coast Road north of Greymouth.  Runanga Workingman's Club is in the small village of Runanga 7kms north of Greymouth on State Highway 6.